¶ Rapido Hotend Considerations
It has been reported that the Rapido hotend (by Phaetus) draws a large amount of current during initial heat-up. If you are using this hotend with our kit, please consider swapping the bed and hotend connections at the Octopus side. Modifications need to be made in order to achieve this:
- Modify the SSR signal cable connector from spade terminal to ferrule.
- Modify the Hotend breakout cable connector from ferrule to spade terminal.
- Connect the SSR signal cable to HE0/PA2 on the Octopus. Pay attention to polarity: Red is + and Black is -.
- Connect the Hotend breakout cable to BED_OUT on the Octopus. Once again, pay attention to polarity!
- Modify the klipper configuration file, under
[extruder]changeheater_pinto PA1 under[heater_bed]changeheater_pinto PA2.
¶ Klicky Probe (Rev. A first Batch)
The klicky probe sub kit ships with a pre-crimped cable that connects to the toolhead PCB. The first batch of Rev. A kits shipped with cables that are too short. If you do not plan to use the klicky probe mod, this will not affect you. If you plan to use the klicky probe mod, check the cable length first - it should be around 18cm. If the cable much shorter than 18cm, You received an incorrect length cable.
¶ Build Plate Considerations
- Our build plate and bed spacers are both thicker than specified in the BOM. As a result, the M3x16 screws specified in the manual will not work, use M3x20 instead.
- Some of our early kits are missing short M5x6 screws for fastening the build plate to the earth wire. If you cannot find any short M5 screws around, we recommend using a M5x10 and 2 to 3 washers to offset the extra height. Just make sure that the connector comes into direct contact with the Aluminium build plate.