This guide contains directions for wiring a Voron Trident 250 using the pre-cut, pre-terminated cables included in the LDO kit. This wiring guide is applicable to both Rev A and Rev C kits - differences between Rev A and Rev C wiring will be indicated where necessary. Important! Mains wiring should only be performed by certified personnel trained in local regulations and safety standards. If at any point you find the images in this guide to be too small, you can check out the source images from this github location.
Here is a short list of tools you should prepare:
The following items should have pre-cut lengths, labels, and crimped connectors:
Certain stepper motor cables are purposely left longer than needed for people with different setups. You may choose to cut them or leave them as is during wiring.
The main toolhead PCB attaches to the sides of the Clockwork 1 extruder. Use two M3x8 screws to install the PCB to the Clockwork 2 extruder. Remember to place a spacer between the PCB and the extruder.
Additional notes about the afterburner toolhead PCB:
The Rev. C kit contains parts to build the Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 toolhead. A two piece PCB based on hartk's two piece toolhead PCB design is provided to aid in wiring. For more information on these PCBs, refer to the wiring kit page and github repository.
The main toolhead PCB attaches to the sides of the Clockwork 2 extruder. Use two M3x8 screws to install the PCB to the Clockwork 2 extruder. Remember to place a spacer between the PCB and the extruder.
The fan adapter PCB attaches to the rear of the Stealthburner main body. Use two M3x6 screws to install the PCB directly on the back of the 5015 fan.
Our nozzle probe is slightly different from the official endstop, use our printed part.
Use two M2x10 self tapping screws to install the PCB onto the printed part. The screws go through the two holes on the D2F switch and fasten sideways into the printed part.
The final result looks like this. Use two M3x25 SHCS to mount the nozzle probe onto the printer. Remember to install one set screw into the pulley, but do not overtighten it. The screw screw is there to ensure that the shaft cannot fall out of the probe body; however it should not be so tight as to impede the shaft from freely moving up and down.
The XY endstop cable has the same 4pin JST-XH connector on both ends but only one end has a label. We recommend connecting the end with the label to the controller and the end without the label to the XY endstop PCB.
Attach the WAGO terminals and 2x2 splicing PCB to the heatbed wiring mount. Use two heat set inserts from the front of the printed part then use two M3x6 BHCS screws to fasten the PCB. Use two M5x10 BHCS screws to fasten the mount onto the frame. Finally there is a M4 screw and serrated washer directly fastened to the aluminum plate - this is where you attach the bed PE (protective earth) cable to ground the build plate. Remove the serrated washer from the aluminum plate, this will be used later to attached the ground wire to the frame.
After installing the Z endstop and heatbed wiring mount to the bed frame, follow the diagram below for wiring:
Remember to use zipties to anchor the cables near the z chain, The end result should look something like this:
Our kit comes with a small strip of fiber glass tape. This tape is used to help insulate the Z probe from radiative heat from the the hotend. We recommend covering the front and sides of the probe with at least 2 layers of this tape. Do not cover the back or the bottom of the probe, if you have problems triggering the probe, try removing bits of the tape as it may be interfering with probe sensing. Optional: consider cutting an opening in the tape, around the LED of the Z probe - this will allow you to see the LED light up when the Z probe is triggered.
Our kit includes two LED strips to install as ceiling lighting for your printer. Please remember to mount using the printed part to prevent a short with the extrusion and mount using M3 hammerhead nuts (or t-nuts) and M3x8 SHCS screws.
Print the bar clips from the print guide and mount them at the top left and right extrusions. We recommend following the routing path shown in the diagram below:
Remember to cover the slots where your LED cables are routed with the extrusion covers provided with the kit.
Your kit should include a pre-wired AC inlet. Double check that the wiring correct, the final layout should be as follows:
Take the inlet cable included in the kit and attach the wires using the above layout as reference. When wired correctly, your live wire will be protected by a fuse, and the switch on the front side of the inlet will operate correctly (lights up when turned on).
The 24V power supply unit that comes with the kit contains a switch on the side to select between 120V and 230V. Flick the switch to the correct value* before powering it on! Failing to do so can destroy the power supply!
* EU Customers may receive the Meanwell RSP-200-24 to comply with local regulations, this model has a universal AC input so there is no switch to flip in this case.
Before installing the controller board, we need to prepare a few things:
Our first step is to install the DIN rails. Note the orientation of the Z stepper motors*. Rotating them now will make it easier to route the motor cables later. Also note the positioning of the deck supports around the edges of the deck panel.
* You may receive Z motors with and a detachable cable as opposed to integrated cables as shown in the photos.
The positioning of the DIN rails is important here - the edge of the DIN frame mounts should be 45mm away from the center of the side frames:
In this step, we will place all the major electronic components and install the wire ducts.
Top (Front). Use a piece of 33cm duct and cut it such that it can fit between the two front Z motors. Place it roughly as shown in the picture.
Middle. Take another piece of 33cm duct and place it roughly between the 24V power supply and Octopus controller. Try to make sure there is at least a 2.5cm gap between the Octopus and wire duct.
Bottom (Rear). Take the last piece of 33cm duct and cut it into two segments that will between on either side of the rear Z motor and below the 24V power supply. The two segments do not have to be perfectly aligned, but the right segment should have a small gap between itself and the power supply.
In this step, we will install all the stepper motor cables (except for the E motor). We recommend taking advantage of the included cable tags to label your stepper cables. Follow the table and diagram below:
*All positions are specified as if standing in front of an upright printer and looking towards it.
The end result should look like this:
In this step we will connect the AC Inlet, the terminals and 24V power supply. Refer to the following diagram:
The grounding wire should be attached using two serrated washers and screwed into the frame. This will ensure a secure electrical connection between earth and the printer frame:
The end result should look like the following:
Before moving on to the next step, let us check all the wiring so far. Incorrect wiring of AC/mains can be dangerous - therefore, always double check your work, and then triple check it once more:
In this step, we will connect the power supply to the controller board and make all the build plate connections.
First connect the following items according to the following table:
|Earth (green/yellow) UK2.5 terminal
|Neutral (blue) UK2.5N terminal.
|LOAD (2) on the SSR.
Make the remaining connections by following the these steps:
We will now begin connecting the cables between the toolhead breakout PCB and the Octopus controller.
|Cable label (breakout end)
|Cable label (controller end)
*The three ports with labels CFAN, LED, CFAN LED are not used in the V2 build, they are used for Voron Switchwire.
The end result looks like this:
In this step, we will finish making all the connections between the breakout PCB and the Octopus controller. Follow the table and diagram below:
|Cable label (breakout end)
|Cable label (controller end)
*Pay special attention to the polarity/connection of the hotend, part fan, and hotend fan cables. Also double check the cables for any mistakes (they do occur from time to time). Any mistake here can cause a short circuit on the 24V power supply.
**The Z probe cable has the same 3pin JST-XH connectors on both ends but has a different pinout! Follow the table carefully and pay attention to the labels on the cable.
***The BED_OUT port in the Octopus controller carries more current than the HE ports, this allows you to use super high power hotends such as the Phaetus Rapido.
Once you connect everything between the breakout board and Octopus, check your wiring: specifically, use a multimeter and check that 24V/GND, and 5V/GND are not shorted. Mistakes in the cables or wirings can cause a short, which can result in damage to the PCBs if powered up. The result is below, you can also check out the close up photos of the breakout PCB and controller.
Before moving on to the next step, let us check all the breakout board wiring. Incorrect wiring or a mistake in the cabling here can cause serious damage to the breakout board and/or controller:
In this step, we will connect the remaining Fans and LEDs, as well as the Neopixel and Ethernet Cable.
|Electronic Compartment Fan*
* The PCB fans use a 3x2 XH splicer PCB to join two fans into a single cable, install the PCB onto the extrusion using a spacer and two M3x8 screws. See image of an installed PCB here.
**The neopixel connector on the Octopus is a simple red female header, consult this pin diagram when connecting. Pay close attention to polarity.
The result is below:
In this short step we will make the connections between the Octopus and Raspberry Pi.
Congratulations! You have completed all the wiring, all that is left now is to cover up the wire ducts! We've posted a high resolution image here for you to compare your work.
WARNING: Do not leave HE0 or HE1 connected.
There have been reports of Octopus boards coming preloaded with a firmware that turns on all heaters and fans as soon as you power up the board. As a result, we recommend leaving the heaters disconnected until after loading the Klipper firmware
Now that you've completed the electronics, it is time to follow the official Voron Software Installation. Follow BTT Octopus Software Configuration but remember to use the LDO Klipper config file which has been customized based on connections in this wiring guide.