This guide contains directions for wiring a Voron 2.4 using the pre-cut, pre-terminated cables included in the LDO kit. Important! Mains wiring should only be performed by certified personnel trained in local regulations and safety standards. If at any point you find the images in this guide to be too small, you can check out the source images from this github location.
Here is a short list of tools you should prepare:
The following items should have pre-cut lengths, labels, and crimped connectors:
Certain stepper motor cables are purposely left longer than needed for people with different setups. You may choose to cut them or leave them as is during wiring.
In our guide, the orientation of the Z stepper motors are slightly different from the official manual. The motor should be installed in a way so that the connector faces outwards towards the skirts.This will free up a small amount of space and prevent any interference with the other components in the electronic compartment. Refer to the photos in the later chapters to check the final orientation.
The LDO toolhead PCB is for Clockwork 1 extruder with either the Afterburner or Stealthburner toolheads. For the Klicky probe the 24v probe pin will not be used.
Note: The probe 24v pin is not configurable using jumpers on the MCU.
Our Z-endstop is slightly different from the official endstop, use our printed part. The Z-endstop mounts to the extrusion using M3x25 SHCS rather than the M3x20 SHCS in the assembly manual.
The XY endstop cable has the same 4pin JST-XH connector on both ends but only one end has a label. We recommend connecting the end with the label to the controller and the end without the label to the XY endstop PCB.
Our kit comes with a small strip of fiber glass tape. This tape is used to help insulate the Z probe from radiative heat from the the hotend. We recommend covering the front and sides of the probe with at least 2 layers of this tape. Do not cover the back or the bottom of the probe, if you have problems triggering the probe, try removing bits of the tape as it may be interfering with probe sensing. Optional: consider cutting an opening in the tape, around the LED of the Z probe - this will allow you to see the LED light up when the Z probe is triggered.
Our kit includes two LED strips to install as ceiling lighting for your printer. Please remember to mount using the printed part to prevent a short with the extrusion and mount using M3 hammerhead nuts (or t-nuts) and M3x8 SHCS screws.
Print the bar clips from the print guide and mount them at the top left and right extrusions. We recommend following the routing path shown in the diagram below or route thru the Z-motor A opening:
Remember to cover the slots where your LED cables are routed with the extrusion covers provided with the kit.
Use the modified Z-motor cover A (link in Printed Parts Guide) if you choose to route the wiring through that opening.
Your kit should include a pre-wired AC inlet. Double check that the wiring correct, the final layout should be as follows:
Take the inlet cable included in the kit and attach the wires using the above layout as reference. When wired correctly, your live wire will be protected by a fuse, and the switch on the front side of the inlet will operate correctly (lights up when turned on).
The 24V power supply unit that comes with the kit contains a switch on the side to select between 120V and 230V. Flick the switch to the correct value* before powering it on! Failing to do so can destroy the power supply!
* EU Customers may receive the Meanwell RSP-200-24 to comply with local regulations. (Full range universal AC input, no select switch)
Before installing the controller board, we need to prepare a few things:
Our first step is to install the DIN rails. Note that the orientation of the DIN rails in our guide differs from that of the official Voron manual. These DIN rails run from front to back, parallel to the bed extrusions on the other side of the deck. Do not fully tighten the screws on the DIN rails yet, as their exact position will be adjusted in the next step. Don't forget to install the plastic end caps on each of the DIN rails.
In this step, we will place all the major electronic components.
In this step, we will install all the stepper motor cables (except for the E motor). We recommend taking advantage of the included cable tags to label your stepper cables. Follow the table and diagram below:
|Rear Right of Gantry
|Rear Left of Gantry
*All positions are specified as if standing in front of an upright printer and looking towards it.
The end result should look like this:
In this step we will connect the AC Inlet, the terminals and 24V power supply. Follow the following diagram:
The end result should look like the following:
Before moving on to the next step, let us check all the wiring so far. Incorrect wiring of AC/mains can be dangerous - therefore, always double check your work, and then triple check it once more:
In this step, we will connect the power supply to the controller board and make all the build plate connections.
We will now begin connecting the cables between the toolhead breakout PCB and the Octopus controller.
|Cable label (breakout end)
|Cable label (controller end)
*The three ports with labels CFAN, LED, CFAN LED are not used in the V2 build, they are used for Voron Switchwire.
The end result looks like this:
In this step, we will finish making all the connections between the breakout PCB and the Octopus controller. Follow the table and diagram below:
|Cable label (breakout end)
|Cable label (controller end)
*Pay special attention to the polarity/connection of the hotend, part fan, and hotend fan cables. Also double check the cables for any mistakes (they do occur from time to time). Any mistake here can cause a short circuit on the 24V power supply.
**The Z probe cable has the same 3pin JST-XH connectors on both ends but has a different pinout! Follow the table carefully and pay attention to the labels on the cable.
Once you connect everything between the breakout board and Octopus, check your wiring: specifically, use a multimeter and check that 24V/GND, and 5V/GND are not shorted. Mistakes in the cables or wirings can cause a short, which can result in damage to the PCBs if powered up. The result is below, you can also check out the close up photos of the breakout PCB and controller.
Before moving on to the next step, let us check all the breakout board wiring. Incorrect wiring or a mistake in the cabling here can cause serious damage to the breakout board and/or controller:
In this step, we will connect the remaining Fans and LEDs
|Electronic Compartment Fan
*There is an alternate routing path for the LED strip by going through the cover of the Z2 drive.
The result is below:
Rev A - Kits with 2 USB cables
Rev B/C - Kits with 1 USB cable, Power PCB, and power cable
Rev A USB cables to the Raspberry Pi.
Rev B/C PCB from Octopus to Rasperry Pi.
NOTE : All other photos will ONLY show Rev A with USB Cables
In this last step, we will wire up the LCD and ethernet cable.
The result should look as follows:
Congratulations! You have completed all the wiring, all that is left now is to cover up the wire ducts! We've posted a high resolution image here for you to compare your work.
WARNING: Do not leave HE0 or HE1 connected.
There have been reports of Octopus boards coming preloaded with a firmware that turns on all heaters and fans as soon as you power up the board. As a result, we recommend leaving the heaters disconnected until after loading the Klipper firmware
Now that you've completed the electronics, it is time to follow the official Voron Software Installation.