This guide contains directions for wiring a Rev. C LDO Voron 2.4 Kit using the pre-cut, pre-terminated cables included in the LDO kit. Important! Mains wiring should only be performed by certified personnel trained in local regulations and safety standards. If at any point you find the images in this guide to be too small, you can check out the source images from this github location.
Here is a short list of tools you should prepare:
The following items should have pre-cut lengths, labels, and crimped connectors:
Certain stepper motor cables are purposely left longer than needed for people with different setups. You may choose to cut them or leave them as is during wiring.
In our guide, the orientation of the Z stepper motors are slightly different from the official manual. The motor should be installed in a way so that the connector faces outwards towards the skirts.This will free up a small amount of space and prevent any interference with the other components in the electronic compartment. Refer to the photos in the later chapters to check the final orientation.
Our kit comes with a small strip of fiber glass tape. This tape is used to help insulate the Z probe from radiative heat from the the hotend. We recommend covering the front and sides of the probe with at least 2 layers of this tape. Do not cover the back or the bottom of the probe, if you have problems triggering the probe, try removing bits of the tape as it may be interfering with probe sensing. Optional: consider cutting an opening in the tape, around the LED of the Z probe - this will allow you to see the LED light up when the Z probe is triggered.
The Rev. C kit contains parts to build the Stealthburner + Clockwork 2 toolhead. A two piece PCB based on hartk's two piece toolhead PCB design is provided to aid in wiring. For more information on these PCBs, refer to the wiring kit page and github repository.
The main toolhead PCB attaches to the sides of the Clockwork 2 extruder. Use two M3x8 screws to install the PCB to the Clockwork 2 extruder. Remember to place a spacer between the PCB and the extruder.
The fan adapter PCB attaches to the rear of the StealthBurner main body. Use two M3x10 FHCS screws to install the PCB directly on the back of the 5015 fan.
Our nozzle probe is slightly different from the official endstop, use our printed part.
Use two M2x10 self tapping screws to install the PCB onto the printed part. The screws go through the two holes on the D2F switch and fasten sideways into the printed part.
The final result looks like this. Use two M3x25 SHCS to mount the nozzle probe onto the printer. Remember to install one set screw into the pulley, but do not overtighten it. The screw screw is there to ensure that the shaft cannot fall out of the probe body; however it should not be so tight as to impede the shaft from freely moving up and down.
Starting from Rev.C, our build plates have been updated with our in-house heatpad design. The new design uses screws to mechanically secure the heatpad as a failsafe. In addition, the bed sensor utilizes the more reliable ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G thermistor as the temperature sensor. Furthermore, the bed wiring harness now utilizes a breakout design - so that the build plate can be conveniently detached entirely from the top side of the deck panel.
Start by assembling the bed WAGO mount. The printed part can found here. Use two heat set inserts from the front of the printed part this will be used for mounting the 2x2 XH Splicer PCB. The two WAGO terminals are snapped into the printed part directly. Each WAGO terminal will be used to breakout a bed power line. The 2x2 XH Splicer PCB is fastened using two M3x6 BHCS screws. The splicer PCB will be used to breakout the bed thermistor. Finally the completed bed WAGO mount will be installed onto the printer using two M5x10 BHCS screws.
Before we start wiring, let's first take a look at the build plate assembly. There are three cables that are directly attached to the bed heater. The two thick braided cables are the bed power lines (labelled Bed N and Bed L). The thinner two pin cable is the bed thermistor (labelled BED TH). Finally there is a M4 screw and serrated washer directly fastened to the aluminum plate - this is where you attach the bed PE (protective earth) cable to ground the build plate.
Shown below is the overall wiring layout for the build plate. Also shown is the wiring for the Z endstop (nozzle probe).
Use the close up diagram below to check your work. Don't forget to install the Bed PE cable onto the build plate!
The XY endstop cable has the same 4pin JST-XH connector on both ends but only one end has a label. We recommend connecting the end with the label to the controller and the end without the label to the XY endstop PCB.
Our kit includes two LED strips to install as ceiling lighting for your printer. Please remember to mount using the printed part to prevent a short with the extrusion and mount using M3 hammerhead nuts (or t-nuts) and M3x8 SHCS screws.
Print the bar clips from the print guide and mount them at the top left and right extrusions. We recommend following the routing path shown in the diagram below or route thru the Z-motor A opening:
Remember to cover the slots where your LED cables are routed with the extrusion covers provided with the kit.
Use the modified Z-motor cover A (link in Printed Parts Guide) if you choose to route the wiring through that opening.
Your kit should include a pre-wired AC inlet. Double check that the wiring correct, the final layout should be as follows:
Take the inlet cable included in the kit and attach the wires using the above layout as reference. When wired correctly, your live wire will be protected by a fuse, and the switch on the front side of the inlet will operate correctly (lights up when turned on).
The 24V power supply unit that comes with the kit contains a switch on the side to select between 120V and 230V. Flick the switch to the correct value* before powering it on! Failing to do so can destroy the power supply!
* EU Customers may receive the Meanwell RSP-200-24 to comply with local regulations. This power supply features power factor correction and has a universal AC input range, so no switching is needed.
Let's prepare our mainboard before proceeding with further wiring:
Make sure the headers on the Octopus and adapter PCB line up correctly. Consult the diagram below:
Let's prepare the Raspberry Pi as well:
Our first step is to install the DIN rails. Note that the orientation of the DIN rails in our guide differs from that of the official Voron manual. These DIN rails run from front to back, parallel to the bed extrusions on the other side of the deck. Do not fully tighten the screws on the DIN rails yet, as their exact position will be adjusted in the next step. Don't forget to install the plastic end caps on each of the DIN rails.
In this step, we will place all the major electronic components.
In this step, we will install all the stepper motor cables (except for the E motor). We recommend taking advantage of the included cable tags to label your stepper cables. Follow the table and diagram below:
Stepper Motor | Physical Position* | Controller Position |
A | Rear Right of Gantry | MOTOR1 |
B | Rear Left of Gantry | MOTOR0 |
Z0 | Front Left | MOTOR2_2 |
Z1 | Rear Left | MOTOR3 |
Z2 | Rear Right | MOTOR4 |
Z3 | Front Right | MOTOR5 |
<NOT USED> | <NOT USED> | MOTOR7 |
*All positions are specified as if standing in front of an upright printer and looking towards it.
The end result should look like this:
In this step we will connect the AC Inlet, the terminals and 24V power supply. Follow the following diagram:
The end result should look like the following:
Before moving on to the next step, let us check all the wiring so far. Incorrect wiring of AC/mains can be dangerous - therefore, always double check your work, and then triple check it once more:
In this step, we will connect the power supply to the controller board and make all the build plate connections.
The SSR connection is critical here, an incorrect connection can cause catastrophic damage. Consult the following close-up of the finished connection (the SSR cover has been removed for photographic purposes). Pay close attention to the numbers labelled on the SSR and position of the yellow LED light.
The overall result:
In this step, we will connect the remaining Fans and LEDs
Item | Cable Label | Controller Position |
Electronic Compartment Fan | PCB FAN | FAN2/PD12 |
LED Strip* | LED STRIP | FAN5/PD15 |
Filter/Exhaust | FILTER FAN | FAN3/PD13 |
Nozzle Probe | Z ENDSTOP | DIAG2/PG10 |
*If you followed the alternate routing path for the LED strip by going through the cover of the Z2 drive. Use the routing path indicated by the dashed line.
Remember that the two 6020 fans are joined using the 3x2 splicing PCB:
The result is below:
In this step, we will connect the toolhead cables to the toolhead breakout PCB.
The RGB header on the Octopus does not have a obvious polarity. Refer to the following photo when making the connection. This plugs it in a way such that the PB0 and 5V pins on the Octopus mainboard are connected to the two wires on the cable, the GND pin should remain unconnected.
Here is the result:
We will now begin connecting the cables between the toolhead breakout PCB and the Octopus controller.
Breakout PCB | Cable label (breakout end) | Controller | Cable label (controller end) |
E-MOTOR | E MOTOR | MOTOR6 | E STEPPER |
TH0 | TH0 | T0/PF4 | HOTEND TH |
CT | CT | T1/PF5 | CHAMBER TH |
HE0 | HE0 | HE0/PA2 | HOTEND |
LED* | Not used | Not used | Not used |
CFAN* | Not used | Not used | Not used |
CFAN LED* | Not used | Not used | Not used |
*The three ports with labels CFAN, LED, CFAN LED are not used in the V2 build, they are used for Voron Switchwire.
The end result looks like this:
In this step, we will finish making all the connections between the breakout PCB and the Octopus controller. Follow the table and diagram below:
Breakout PCB | Cable label (breakout end) | Controller | Cable label (controller end) |
PCF* | PCF | FAN0/PA8 | PART FAN |
HEF* | HEF | FAN1/PE5 | HOTEND FAN |
XES | XES | DIAG0/PG6 | X ENDSTOP |
YES | YES | DIAG1/PG9 | Y ENDSTOP |
ABL** | ABL | DIAG7/PG15 | Z PROBE |
*Pay special attention to the polarity/connection of the hotend, part fan, and hotend fan cables. Also double check the cables for any mistakes (they do occur from time to time). Any mistake here can cause a short circuit on the 24V power supply.
**The Z probe cable has the same 3pin JST-XH connectors on both ends but has a different pinout! Follow the table carefully and pay attention to the labels on the cable.
The overall result:
Before moving on to the next step, let us check all of the breakout board wiring. Incorrect wiring or a mistake in the cabling here can cause serious damage to the breakout board and/or controller:
Consult this close-up photo of the breakout board:
And this close-up of the Octopus mainboard:
In this step, we will make the connections between the Raspberry Pi and Octopus mainboard:
This is the result:
In this last step, we will wire up the LCD and ethernet cable. For the touchscreen, use the longer, white FFC cable (approx. 30cm, found in the cable bags) rather than the short golden FFC cable that comes with the touchscreen. For more info on setting up your touchscreen, read this guide.
You may want to attach the FFC cable to the touchscreen first before installing the entire touchscreen module to the frame.
WARNING: Inserting the FFC cable in the wrong orientation can result in damage to your touchscreen and/or Raspberry Pi
Consult the photos below if you are not sure which way to plug in the FFC cable.
The result should look as follows:
Congratulations! You have completed all the wiring, all that is left now is to cover up the wire ducts! We've posted a high resolution image here for you to compare your work.
Now that you have completed hardware wiring, it is time to move on to software setup. The following sections outline resources you can use to finish setting up software for your printer. Many of the instructions below are derived from the official Voron documentation site which you can visit here.
We first need to install an operating system onto your Raspberry Pi. The easiest way to do this is to use their official imager.
Many of the following steps below require you to remotely run commands on your Raspberry Pi via SSH. If you are on Windows, putty is the goto tool. If you are on Mac OS, you can simply run ssh on your Terminal. For more info about remotely accessing your Raspberry Pi using SSH, read this article.
On your Raspberry Pi, you will need to install Raspberry Pi OS Lite, Klipper, and a web interface to manage your printer. The most popular options for a web interface are Fluidd and Mainsail - both are great options with similar controls, you can't go wrong picking either of them. To make installation a breeze, we recommend using KIAUH, which is a script that helps you install Klipper, Fluidd/Mainsail and any other dependancies that may be required.
If you followed the previous step with KIAUH, then KlipperScreen should be successfully installed. Read this guide for information on touchscreen setup and instructions for rotating screen orientation.
Next, you need to install Klipper firmware onto your Octopus mainboard - this allows the main Klipper software on your Raspberry Pi to talk to and control your mainboard.
WARNING: Do not leave HE0 or HE1 connected.
There have been reports of Octopus boards coming preloaded with a firmware that turns on all heaters and fans as soon as you power up the board. As a result, we recommend leaving the heaters disconnected until after loading the Klipper firmware
ls /dev/serial/by-id/
on your Raspberry Pi using SSH. You should see a string of text like usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_12345678900DB0D8-if00
. This is the MCU path for the Octopus, copy it for later use.With software and firmware both successfully installed. We can now move on to adding Klipper configuration files. These configuration files basically tell Klipper how our printer is wired. It also contains other useful data such as custom macros, tuning values, and so on.
printer.cfg
.[mcu]
section, replace {REPLACE WITH YOUR SERIAL}
with the Octopus MCU path you obtained in the previous steps.With all the configuration files in place, you should now be able to use Fluidd/Mainsail to perform basic controls on your 3D printer. However, there are still a few more stepss you should follow before starting your first print. Follow the initial startup guide on the Voron documentation site.